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  1. #11

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    continued:





    Okay, here is the detailing on the bolter thus far. I had to change the proportions a little.





    Once I get the back cable connecting housing completed; I'll bore the hole for the arm gimbal mount.

    That should be fun....

    Blackadder

  2. #12

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    In retrospect perhaps this thread is under the wrong heading; should it be under "Works in Progress" or "Tutorials?" I leave that to the moderators to decide.

  3. #13
    "In charge when the boss is away"
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    Or both? Sorted that for you mate

    This thread is a plasticard users dream.
    Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
    All Are Equal in the Dark, Save those that Embrace it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nomad View Post
    Well, Kellen, how do you take care of a big scary warp-wolf named Humperdink, you send a Scotsman after him... ahhhh i mean a Troll. I'm sure you can understand the confusion though. Blue skinned, love a brawl, not too bright, from the snowy hills and wearing Tartan. The very image of a Scotsman
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    You sir are the model Scotsman!
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  4. #14

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    Changing the title of the thread was not exactly what I had in mind, but to change the location of the thread to either the: "Works in Progress' or to "Tutorials" forum as I noticed that this location caters to questions, "The place to post your questions concerning painting and modeling minis."

    but whatever, here's the next installment........


    The gimbal is installed. Now to finish the detailing.

    Don't know why I put off installing the gimbal. It really is quite simple.

    First you cut, chop bore, carve, or blast a hole larger than the rotator sphere. I used a Dremel drum rasp.

    Then stuff paper, tissue, or whatever into the void so you don't waste too much epoxy.

    mix up enough epoxy to fill the hole.

    smear a light coat of Vaseline or wax onto the sphere.

    Insert the sphere slightly more than half way into the epoxy. a rim of epoxy will push out around the sphere. don't wipe it off or disturb it; you'll just make a mess.

    Allow the epoxy to set for a few hours. I use epoxy that hardens in 24 hours but after a few hours it is hard enough to handle.

    I use an Exacto chisel to remove the rim of epoxy from the ball. The epoxy at this stage comes away readily from the plasticard with no residue. you can even flick it off with your fingernail.



    At this point it should be noted that I have threaded an 8-32 machine screw into the ball.

    Grabbing the screw head with a set of pliers; the ball should come out with a satisfying 'pop'.



    Voila one fully articulated gimbal,

    Blackadder
    Last edited by The Blackadder; 19-11-2011 at 07:20 PM.

  5. #15

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    That's an extremely detailed and sharp build! Are you using some kind of template?

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by LutherMax View Post
    That's an extremely detailed and sharp build! Are you using some kind of template?
    Believe it or not I built the entire Warhound by eye. The only measurement was that which was provided by FW; that the model stands 10.5 inches tall. Lucie's average height is that 10.5 inches but she can crouch to 9.0 inches and stands 12.25 inches with her legs fully stretched. The hydraulic cylinders limit that height so with them installed she can only stand 11.5 inches tall which is just as well as she looks rather ridiculous in that pose. :D


    http://i.imgur.com/cdjlG


    http://i.imgur.com/VlSc7


    http://i.imgur.com/0uUh5
    Lucie employs wood dowels and PVC tubing for her major leg joints.


    http://i.imgur.com/tSPBN
    The dowels have to be tapped in with a small mallet and provide enough friction for her to hold any pose I position her in.


    http://i.imgur.com/fIaL0
    The hydraulic cylinders employ straight pins for the axles and thanks to the telescoping tubing from 'Evergreen' the pistons and cylinders are fully movable.


    http://i.imgur.com/6mweF

    Incidentally since these images were taken I shortened the middle segment of each toe as the toes appeared to be too long. I also replaced the toe joint cylinders with smaller diameter tubing.

    The weapons sizes were purely guestimation on my part and only by a stroke of luck were they in the ballpark as far as compatible size.
    Last edited by The Blackadder; 22-11-2011 at 08:40 AM.

  7. #17

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    Impressive work... Rep.

  8. #18
    That "white" guy
    Join Date
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    Brilliant stuff!!
    And to think I was chafing over a bunch of magnets....
    GO GREEN!!!
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    Orkgasm.... I should have known he was behind this. All of the evidence pointed right to him... I just never wanted to believe it.
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    Ork knows best
    My Snakebite "Forkbref" Braves....
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    An' sum udder stuff...

  9. #19
    Acolyte
    Join Date
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    awsome! been following your build of the thunderhawk on zealot.you are inspireing!

  10. #20

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    Thanks for all the replies although I still am not receiving email notification of reader posts. I intend to open a T'hawk building thread on this forum as soon as this problem is resolved. I will answer any question as fully as I can regarding the 'Lucie' build so ask anything you want more fully explained as that is the primary reason for this thread. I tend to omit certain aspects of the building process that I deem may be too boring or pedantic.

    Plus I am a lazy typist.

 

 
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