PDA

View Full Version : Primer fail



Wrathchild
29-12-2009, 03:47 PM
Alright, so I ran to home depot to get some primer a while ago, since I figured my GW primer was near the end of its run. I basically wound up with this (First mistake: Going to home depot):

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-211338-Paint-Plastic-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YPHFC

As it was the closest they had to plastic primer and the erm helpful man at the paint desk said it would work just fine as a primer. Tested it on the some sprue and it looked ok. Well fast forward a month, I have just used it for the first time with less than desirable results. It's extremely glossy and despite having used it last night, the stuff still isn't completely dry. Definitely not something which is a good substitute for the real deal.

My question: Is it okay to paint on? And would I be shooting myself in the foot for the second time if I bought GW primer and redid the whole thing?

Captain Kellen
29-12-2009, 03:53 PM
I know that you can prime over GW primer with GW primer. I would think a light coat of GW primer over what you have would be ok but wait until the other is dry.

Did I mention to wait until the rustoleum dries? :grin: Just checking!

I think that you are sunk though with the rustoleum primer until it dries. Try and place the model near a vent or something to get a good air source flowing around it. (I don't suggest a dryer vent with all the fluff)

Temperature also effects any primer. Last night it took forever for the GW primer to dry due to the temperature in the garage being at 35 to 40 degree's. It didn't like it, not one bit.

now... to see if my chappy is dry in the corner...

CK

Wrathchild
29-12-2009, 03:56 PM
Good idea, I'll put the lot by a vent then. Can said 24 hours till it's totally dry so now I play the waiting game :sad:.

Thanks!

Inquisitor Alex
29-12-2009, 07:19 PM
Rustproof primer is garbage for models. Great for autobody work, but not so much for painting over. I'd suggest dipping and cleaning them with simplegreen. If you buy primer at a hardware store, look for the Krylon primers - they're cheap, excellent quality, dry in the damp and cold, and dry in 5 minutes. Awesome stuff.

Pherion
29-12-2009, 07:47 PM
Krylon ... I'll have to look at that. I'm very tiard of paying $14 per can of spray!

grimdisco
30-12-2009, 12:47 AM
Krylon!! !Krylon!! !Krylon!!! Krylon!!! Krylon!!! Krylon!!! Krylon!!! Krylon!!!
Why dose anyone use anything els.. Krylon is by far the best primer and sealant for anything.

Carrelio
30-12-2009, 01:19 AM
Lol! Same thing happened to me! I was at my hobby store and the guy was out of normal primer, but still had a can of this sketchy black primer... so I used it, thought it would be dry in 15 minutes... fingerprint! Now my hammerhead is plagued by 5 little lumps where I grabbed it :( Some of the other stuf I primed still isn't dry.

Wrathchild
30-12-2009, 04:24 AM
I feel you carrelio, spared the fingerprints but never trust the sketchy random primers, a good lesson learned!

As for cleaning them with simple green, is this necessary? I was really hoping I could just give em a once over with GW Primer and hopefully mitigate the damage. Would that make it worse? I don't think I'm in danger of obscuring details with another spray but better safe than sorry.

Carrelio
30-12-2009, 04:36 AM
I'd say strip them down, the sticky primer residue might never dry and it'll mean the layers on top will never set properly either. I think I'm gonna have to strip mine too.

Drakdylon
30-12-2009, 04:51 AM
I actually used that exact same brand of spraypaint -except that the stuff I used was tan- as primer for my Guard. I even bought it at Home Depot too.

It DID take about a day to fully dry, and I'd sprayed it in October when the weather was a little bit warmer. It could be that your conditions are causing the paint to take longer to dry fully. Ideal spraying temperatures are NOT 30-40 degrees, so that is likely the source of your problems.

Nevertheless, after using the Rustoleum stuff and letting it dry completely, I painted over it with GW paints. It wasn't terrible, really. It worked okay, and the end result was nice. Because I'd primed the Guardsmen with a color that played a major part in their paintscheme, I saved myself a ton of work. I did notice, however, that the Citadel paints had trouble sticking to the Rustoleum primer. I ended up having to put extra coats of paint on the parts that weren't supposed to be tan. It was a bit of a bother, to be honest, but in the end the minis looked fine.

If, however, you were using the Rustoleum just as standard black primer, I would say "No, don't do that. The Rustoleum isn't meant to be a primer, it's actually just a spraypaint." The extra coats you'll have to put on the models will actually make more work for you. If you need a colored primer that will work pretty well and will play a major part in your end color-scheme, then I'd say "Sure, use it." If you just want black primer, I would say "Buy the GW stuff -or Krylon- online and wait a few days for it to get to you."

Also, if you don't want to have to add extra coats, I would do like Alex suggested and give the minis you've already primed with the Rustoleum a soak in the Simple Green. That should clear them up for the real primer.

Hope this helps!

Wrathchild
30-12-2009, 05:48 AM
Thanks for the advice! I will go ahead and strip the mini's tomorrow then, no sense killing myself over painting 30 odd guardsman. And fortunately, the coat isn't too thick so it should be gone with relative ease, just need to buy some simple green. I actually stripped about 5 of them with good results using turpentine and a toothbrush, but that effort alone will probably give me carpal tunnel some day. So I'll just be patient for once and wait till tomorrow. Thanks again!