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Tall
27-10-2009, 09:31 PM
So I've just finished my first Terminator, I've gone to apply a transfer on his shoulder and it's bunched up and not shaped properly. Does anyone have any tricks to prevent this from happening?

Honsou
27-10-2009, 09:34 PM
Yup: it's actually very simple. When you apply the transfer, brush over it gently with a brush to ensure there are no bubbles underneath. Just follow the steps on the transfer sheet carefully and you'll be fine.

Tall
27-10-2009, 09:39 PM
I did that but it still didn't go on right around the edges. I even slid it off and tried again

Consadine
27-10-2009, 09:41 PM
Some of the transfers are hard to apply. The Dark Angels winged sword, for example, is one that I have never been able to get on correctly. Very distressing. Which transfer are you trying to use?

Tall
27-10-2009, 09:44 PM
The Salamanders, then I'm going to paint it Bolt Gun to make it my Iron Dragon

Consadine
27-10-2009, 09:46 PM
Try cutting the transfer out with scissors, cutting some of the clear parts around the transfer off as you separate it from the sheet. Then make small cuts in between the spikes that are behind the head. That should help.

Faileas
27-10-2009, 09:48 PM
I've also had it when I pick my model up and rub a bit of the transfer off, ending up with me having to scrape the rest off and then reapply a new one!

Some are tricky , but it does get easyier with practice, I find a wet brush works well and make sure the transfer has had a decent soak....also remember you can move the transfer once its in the rough area, just be gentle

Honsou
27-10-2009, 10:07 PM
I've also had it when I pick my model up and rub a bit of the transfer off, ending up with me having to scrape the rest off and then reapply a new one!

That can also be guarded against by putting on a light layer of varnish seal or something like that. It helps to make sure it wont separate.

grimdisco
28-10-2009, 02:19 PM
I have found that you need to soften the decals when you apply them.
here is a link to a softener.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0

Fedicus
28-10-2009, 02:40 PM
I use a small ball of tightly wadded cotton wool to compress the decal over curved surfaces as this will even out the pressure then brush on a coat of varnish when dry.

Birdie
28-10-2009, 03:44 PM
I have found that you need to soften the decals when you apply them.
here is a link to a softener.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0

Yup, this is the stuff I use too, especially on transfers on shoulders, works a treat.

Tall
28-10-2009, 06:37 PM
As a side note to this, I'll admit now I'm a lazy sod but is there anywhere that I can use as a guide to squad Iconography? I've no idea what to put on which squad.

aardvark
29-10-2009, 06:40 PM
Ah! This perennial problem again. Yes, the answer is probably a decal softening solution as m'learned colleague says above. But that's not the whole answer on its own. If only it were that simple .....

Decals - any brand - adhere much better to gloss surfaces than to matt. Not only does that help them stay on, but it helps hide the carrier film and prevent "silvering" (tiny air bubbles trapped in the rough matt surface).

So, Tip 1 is to gloss varnish your shoulder pads first.

Tip 2 is to get hold of a decal solution system.

There are several: Microscale, Humbrol, Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, etc, etc. I've only ever used the Microscale products, which I've used for 30 years without problems. They work. And they last long.

You use this by painting on the Micro Sol solvent where the decal will be, just before you apply it. Once applied and positioned, you can apply more Sol if the location requires it. Leave for 30 secs or so and press down gently from the centre outwards. Once you're happy, apply some Micro Set over the top and let dry. Then over-varnish with matt or gloss. Job done.

Tip 3 is to use a scalpel point, pin, etc to prick any troublesome air bubbles. In cases of curving both ways at once, like shoulder pads, you may need to slit the outer edges of the decal where it creases up and overlap them.

Tip 4 is not to leave the decals to soak for too long or you'll lose all the adhesive, and never submerge them. Float them on the surface until the paper is fullly wet (goes darker), then remove. If the decal isn't loose yet, leave it on the paper a little longer until it is.

Tip 5 is to get some really fine-pointed tweezers for handling the decals from the paper to the model. Points are useful for positioning. 2 - 3 on eBay.

Tip 6 is to get hold of Microscale's own varnishes too: Micro Flat and Micro Gloss. They're very thin consistency and brush and spray well, giving very fine coats. The matt is really matt, unlike some others, and pretty much invisible. They do settle out over time if not used, but a good shake or a quick stir is enough to fix this.